NEW YORK - There was a slight military edge to Proenza Schouler's spring collection, making the Park Avenue Armory an appropriate venue to preview it Friday night as part of New York Fashion Week.
The well-edited line moved from a hemp waistcoat with epaulettes to a puffy marigold-colored silk faille evening coat easier than you'd think - and then throw in a "gold-leaf" cocktail dress that actually appeared to be gold-painted feathers.
Actresses Demi Moore and Kyra Sedgwick were among those in the audience. Moore said she tries to be in New York during Fashion Week when she can. "I don't know if I believe in coincidences but I do think it's synchronicity," Moore said, noting that she's in the city this time around because her husband, Ashton Kutcher, is filming a movie.
Proenza's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who won the Council of Fashion Designers of America award earlier this year as the top womenswear designers, took a different approach to next season than many of their peers who've already offered a glimpse of their upcoming lines to stylists, editors and retailers. This duo continued to embrace many of the menswear details that have proven popular for fall, and they also seemed to favor a shorter-length silhouette while others have gone for a longer, leaner look.
Vests were on of the key items on the runway, with vests layered over sleeveless waistcoats - which are, essentially, long vests. The most unique item might have been the marching band-style hats worn by several of the models.
One of the most stunning outfits, thought, was a wood-beaded miniskirt with a bubble hem.
The palette of natural neutrals, however, fits in with the broader trends, as well as the mixing of dressy and casual fabrics, such as a hemp linen vest with a white cotton poplin shirt and a black washed organza skirt.
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